Beautiful Mafia Island, also known as Whale Shark Island, is Tanzania’s best-kept secret. Lapped by the Indian Ocean off the south coast of Tanzania, this 394km2 Island attracts a fraction of the tourists who flock to its northern neighbor Zanzibar.
However, if you’re seeking a peaceful beach retreat to complement your Tanzanian safari, this secluded tropical paradise is the perfect choice. The beaches are picture-perfect, the diving in the Mafia Island Marine Park is extraordinary, and the chance to spot a whale shark—the world’s biggest fish—makes for a truly unforgettable experience. What sets Mafia apart is its laid-back, untouched vibe, making it feel like a real undiscovered gem.
Mafia Island once served as a key hub in the ancient trade routes linking East Africa and East Asia, frequented by Arab merchants. Off its coast, on the small island of Chole Mjini in Chole Bay, stood a bustling settlement that played a pivotal role in controlling trade from the silver mines of Eastern Zimbabwe, which were channeled through the old ports of Kilwa and Michangani.
In the mid-1820s, disaster struck the town of Kua on Juani Island when it was raided by Sakalava cannibals from Madagascar. They arrived in 80 canoes, ate many of the inhabitants, and enslaved the rest. In 1890, a treaty handed control of Mafia Island to Germany, which began constructing the structures still seen on Chole today. The Germans paid Sultan Sayyid Ali bin Said al-Said of Zanzibar a hefty sum of M4 million for both the island and part of the mainland coast. However, on January 12, 1915, British forces took over Mafia in a swift military action.
Despite its name, Mafia Island in Tanzania has nothing to do with Italian gangsters, and you won’t find any mob bosses lurking near the sea turtle nesting sites or the vibrant schools of tropical fish.
The island’s name actually stems from the Swahili phrase Mahali pa Afya, meaning “the place of good health.” And we wholeheartedly agree—time spent on this peaceful island is bound to do wonders for your well-being!
Like Zanzibar, Mafia is an archipelago consisting of Mafia Island and three smaller islands: Jibondo, Juani, and Chole. However, it lacks the heavy tourist traffic that floods Unguja, Zanzibar’s main island. Because it’s largely overlooked by many tour operators, Mafia’s beaches remain peaceful, and its wildlife and marine life flourish undisturbed.
This sense of exclusivity makes a trip to Mafia pricier than Zanzibar, but the payoff is the chance to experience the island as if you have it all to yourself.
Mafia Island Marine Park is one of the top diving spots in East Africa. Spanning 822 km² (317 mi²) off the island’s southern coast, the park offers an incredible chance to explore the rich marine life of the Indian Ocean. Among its many world-class diving sites, Kinasi Pass in Chole Bay stands out.
This pristine reef is home to underwater giants like giant grouper, potato cod, eagle rays, moray eels, bull sharks, and guitarfish. The park also boasts shallow, snorkel-friendly coral gardens filled with vibrant reef fish. The park is especially known for its resident whale sharks—massive plankton feeders that can grow up to 18 meters (60 feet) long. The best time to spot (and even swim with) these gentle giants is from October to March, when there’s a 90% success rate.
Additionally, the area is frequented by dolphins, giant turtles, and humpback whales, which pass through on their migration between August and October.
While Mafia’s stunning beaches and coral reefs are the main draws, many visitors also enjoy exploring the island on a scenic day trip.
Highlights of this excursion include a freshwater lake home to hippos, the colorful 19th-century lighthouse at Ras Mkumbi, and the lively fresh produce market in Kilindoni town.
Chole, a small palm-covered island just a short distance from Mafia, is home to the impressive ruins of Chole Mjini. Once the most important town in the Mafia Archipelago during the 19th century, the ruins feature a German customs house, a Hindu temple, and several grand Omani mansions.
Chole is also famous for being home to a unique colony of Seychelles flying foxes, giant fruit bats found nowhere else in East Africa. A bit further afield, the ancient city of Kua on Juani Island is definitely worth a visit. Spanning 6 hectares, this ruined city was the capital of the Mafia Archipelago from medieval times until the early 19th century.
The main difference between Mafia Island and Zanzibar lies in their level of tourist development. Zanzibar is a bustling, well-known beach destination with countless accommodation options, from large all-inclusive resorts to simple backpacker hostels.
In contrast, Mafia remains largely untouched by mass tourism, with its lodges and resorts being small, exclusive, and offering a more boutique experience.
Another significant difference is the vibe of the islands. Mafia doesn’t have a historic town or the lively atmosphere of Zanzibar’s old Stone Town. However, Mafia has a clear advantage when it comes to marine activities like diving and snorkeling.
The beaches on Mafia are much quieter and more peaceful, whereas Zanzibar’s beaches can often feel overcrowded, with constant vendors trying to sell you something every few steps.
Absolutely! Mafia Island is a great addition to a Tanzania safari, especially if you’re exploring the Southern safari circuit, which includes Tanzania’s largest national parks: Nyerere National Park (formerly Selous Game Reserve) and Ruaha National Park.
But it can also be easily combined with the Serengeti National Park, Ngorongoro Crater, and other highlights of the popular Northern safari circuit.
With some careful planning, you can typically fly from your safari destination to Mafia Island in just one day. However, if timing doesn’t align, you may need to spend a night in transit, either in Dar es Salaam or, if you’re coming from the north, in Arusha.
The cost of a trip to Mafia Island will vary based on your choice of accommodation and the amount of time you dedicate to pricier activities like diving and boat safaris.
On average, you can expect to pay around US$300 to US$400 per person per day for a mid-range package that includes flights, lodging, meals, and some activities. Luxury packages or those centered around diving will be more expensive. If you’re looking to save, traveling independently and staying in budget accommodations is an option, but keep in mind that flights to the island can still be quite pricey.
Mafia Island is a great destination to visit year-round. Thanks to its tropical location in the Indian Ocean, the weather is always warm to hot, with a gentle sea breeze providing some relief.
The best time to visit is between June and October, during the Dry season, although this is also when the island sees the most tourists. March to May are the wettest months and are typically avoided by travelers. A sweet spot to consider is the shoulder season from November to February, when the weather is less rainy than the peak of the wet season and the crowds are smaller.
The most common way to reach Mafia Island is by flying from Dar es Salaam’s Julius Nyerere International Airport, which is well-connected to domestic, regional, and international destinations.
Coastal Air and Auric Air are the only airlines offering scheduled flights between Dar es Salaam and Mafia Island, and both also provide connections to other popular tourist spots in Tanzania.
The flight takes just 30 minutes and usually costs around US$150 one-way. The only other option is the unreliable government ferry from Dar es Salaam, but this is best suited for independent travelers with plenty of time and flexibility, as it’s not a dependable alternative.
If you’re looking for a peaceful, off-the-beaten-path destination, Mafia Island is the perfect getaway. With its stunning beaches, diverse marine life, and tranquil atmosphere, it offers a unique experience away from the crowds.
Whether you’re diving in the pristine waters of Mafia Island Marine Park or exploring the island’s rich history, Mafia promises a memorable and relaxing escape. While it may take a bit more effort to get there, the rewards are well worth it for anyone seeking a slice of paradise. So, if you’re ready for an adventure in one of Tanzania’s hidden gems, Mafia Island is waiting for you.
Since 2016, Greenway Nature Tours Africa has been offering safari packages with accommodations, and guided tours for both individual and group travelers throughout East Africa, covering countries such as Uganda, Rwanda, Kenya, and Tanzania.
The best time to visit Zanzibar for a holiday is during the dry season, between June and October, when sun-splashed white sandy beaches, gentle tropical breezes, turquoise waters, and swaying palms unveil Zanzibar’s many enchanting and romantic splendours.
